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Business & Tech

Bonnet Lane Family Restaurant

When stomachs are empty and money is tight, eating at a family-style restaurant may be just right.

In economic times such as these, family restaurants like Bonnet Lane are a boon and a virtual necessity. For many, the large portions of hearty American food, the wide selection of dishes, the child-friendly ambiance, menu, and of course, the low prices make Bonnet Lane and its brethren the “go-to” eateries in their respective neighborhoods.

The best of them, like a few of the large, sleek, Greek-owned diners, while by no means gourmet, produce some rather high-quality nourishment.

Bonnet Lane Family Restaurant is a good example of this important niche in the restaurant industry. In Abington for 10 years, after having a good run in Hatboro, Bonnet Lane has become a staple in the area for breakfast and lunch.

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My classic breakfast, fried eggs over easy, home fries and bacon ($6), was quite nicely done and served.  The bottomless coffee was well above average, too.

A few days later, I returned with my Lovely Dining Companion (LDC) for dinner. We were promptly seated in a comfortable booth under the large front windows, and our young server, Molly, came right over to take our drink order and drop off a basket of dinner rolls.  I noticed that the serving staff in the evening was much younger than the mature, experienced daytime group.  It was Molly’s second day on the job.  (She did quite well.)

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A cup of chicken egg drop soup and a small side salad, both of which came with our entrées, got things started.  The soup ($3 a cup if ordered separately) was piping hot, a little on the salty side, but full of chicken chunks and shreds, and quite tasty. My LDC gave the small, but adequate, side salad a thumbs-up sign.  Its thickened garlic balsamic vinaigrette dressing was particularly enjoyable.

The next choices included steak sandwiches, deli and club sandwiches, burgers, and steak, pasta, poultry, veal and seafood entrees. We applied the “When in Rome” rule, and ordered family restaurant and diner standards:  chopped sirloin steak ($12) and half-roasted chicken ($12) platters. 

The chicken was not the best, bland, and worse, overcooked for my taste.  The baked potato had waited around being kept warm for too long.  I did enjoy the excellent bread stuffing and gravy; however, the best by far on this platter was the large, sweet and tender corn-on-the-cob. My LDC commented that her chopped steak was a little tough and chewy, and her side of fried eggplant was a bit underdone.  Her side of broccoli was satisfactory.

We had earlier considered sharing the broiled seafood sampler of flounder, scallops and crab-stuffed shrimp ($16). Perhaps we should have ordered that instead.

To our surprise, Molly informed us that the dinner entrées include some dessert puddings and ice cream.  The rice pudding ($2 when ordered separately) we both chose was not compelling: not very sweet and of slightly grainy texture.

But you can’t argue with the low cost.  We had two three-course dinners—soup or salad, an entrée with two vegetables, dessert and refilled soft drinks—for under $25.

Recently, I went back to Bonnet Lane, this time for lunch with my son.  Not much has changed. Even the prices remained static.

He ordered a daily special, fried shrimp in the basket, which came with French fries and coleslaw for $8.  I had a luncheon platter of homemade meatloaf ($7), “from a family recipe … that is a tasty favorite,” according to the menu. So, for $15, plus a small dish of ice cream for $2, we enjoyed a filling lunch. The day’s special sandwich, egg salad, came with a beverage and dessert for only $7.50.

The food quality and portion size was passable, though not on a par with a good Greek-owned diner.  Most occupants that midday, both customers and staff, were decidedly mature.  Our own experienced server, Maryanne, is, as well … and was a dear delight.

Overall rating:  mmm ½ - breakfast;  mm – lunch and dinner  (out of 5 m’s).

To contact Mitch Davis, you can e-mail him at: MdavisMainCourse@aol.com

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The Main Course at Bonnet Lane Family Restaurant:

Location: 1720 Old Your Road, Abington

Phone: 215-657-5750

Cuisine: American diner comfort food in a non-diner setting

Hours: Sunday to Wednesday, 7 a.m. - 9 p.m.; Thursday to Saturday 7 a.m. - 10 p.m.

Breakfast prices:  Eggs, omelets, pancakes, etc., $3.50 - $8.

Lunch prices: Platters, salads, sandwiches, burgers, wraps, $5 - $8.

Dinner prices: Appetizers, soups and salads, $3 - $8; entrees, $10 - $16

Ambiance: A diner not in the shape of a diner.

Credit cards: Visa and Mastercard accepted

Wheelchair access: Yes

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